It's a bit like the old music hall joke, "We went to Mürren but it was closed". At the time I didn't know whether it was just because the Lauterbrunnen to Grütschalp section on the BLM was closed or if it is like this every summer, but the whole place felt like it was just ticking over; barely half awake.
Given that the BLM trains were running a "reduced service" of one train every twenty minutes, and the cable car from Stechelberg was so crowded we had to take it in turns to breath, I suspected the visitor numbers were significantly down. (They were - see Alan Ramsay's comments below.)
With the benefit of hindsight I wish we'd stopped off at Gimmelwald on the way down and taken a look into the top of the valley rather than taking the funicular up to Allmendhubel which has little to offer in the summer. Still one of these days I must get back there if only to do the Schilthorn.
If you take the train to Winteregg, with its pleasant berghaus and dairy, there is a lovely walk from there to Grütschalp with grand views across the valley to the mountains. You can walk from Mürren to Winteregg as well but, from the train, this looked rather more wooded.